GLAZES IN WOODFIRED KILN
By Elisa Helland-Hansen, Norway.
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Why use glazes in a woodfired kiln?
Why not?
My basic attitude is that it does not matter
what your starting point is whether it be an
electric kiln, a gas kiln, a simple raku kiln
or an anagama. Some of the best contemporary
ceramics I´ve seen are made in earthenware,
fired oxidized in an electric kiln.
What really matters is the individual
artists ability to investigate and take advantage
of the possibilities offered by the specific
kind of kiln you have chosen to work with. How
to cooperate with your own kiln, use it as a
tool to develop an independent and individual
statement in your work. What can my kiln offer
that no other kiln can do?
To be honest I really don´t care all that
much about woodfired ceramics.
In this audience it is probably like cursing
in church.
Entering an exhibition of woodfired ceramics
, I often go blind.
We have this saying in Norway: I can´t
see the the woods because of all the trees.
The same thing happens when I am exposed to woodfired
works: I cant see the work because of all the
ash effects. There are just too many anagama
fired pieces that just look more or less the
same. You can hardly distinguish the fingerprint
behind the work or the individual statement of
the artist.
To me this is a problem.
This attitude might suggest that I am ignorant
to the secrets of understanding the rich traditions
and special aesthetic qualities of woodfired
ceramics. If so, I need a door opener.
I am not against woodfiring as such. I am a
dedicated practitioner myself and enjoy every
bit of the process. It is a firing technique
as good as any other firing method. But by choosing
this firing technique we have not made it easy
for ourselves, at least in the sense of being
acknowledged and accepted by a larger art community.
There is a great danger that the seducing effects
of flame marks, shellprints and flashing colors
from ashdeposits and long firings can become
a nonpersonal and anonymous stamp on your work.
It becomes a distraction instead of revealing
the underlying intention and statement of your
personal expression. To make an analogy: How
many truly beautiful raku pieces have you seen
in your life?
The bright turquoise, crackled surface may be
so seductive, but so hard to use in an individual
and convincing manner.
I am asked to say something about glazes in
woodfired kilns today.
I have chosen to be very narrowminded and only
talk about one single glaze.
My experience is that you can obtain a rich
variety by selecting just a few glazes that respond
to your firing technique and still come up with
interesting and unexpected results after years
of practice. Even if I have been teaching glaze
chemistry for years in artschool, I only play
around with three or four glazes in my own kiln.
I experience that by concentrating on just a
few glazes, I get a better understanding of the
potential in every glaze.
When I first was introduced to a woodfired kiln
in the mid seventies at the artschool where I
studied in Bergen in Norway, I knew nothing about
all the different kiln designs and firing methods
that existed within this field. I just happened
to take part in building a fastfired downdaft
woodfired kiln at a colleague´s studio
in western Norway. I enjoyed the laborwork involved
with woodfiring. Shortly after graduation I decided
to build the same type of kiln at my place
My kiln is a 30 cubic feet fastfired downdraft
kiln fired in 7 to 8 hours to reach 1300 degrees
Celsius, cone 10. It fires very evenly with less
than one cone difference throughout the
chamber. No wadding is needed. I fire it approximately
8-10 times a year and still fire the same old
kiln after 25 years, though it is screaming for
some major repairs these days.
It´s a perfect kiln for those who are attracted
to short term pyromania.
I find it overwhelming, inspiring but also a
bit frightening to be exposed to all these
enormous noborigamas and beautiful anagamas we
have seen pictures of the last few days.
Somehow I can´t see that these huge constructions
have anything to do with me or are relevant to
my working conditions, especially when I turn
older.
I believe it must be comforting to somebody in
this audience to know that it actually IS possible
to deal with a smaller woodfired kiln, handle
the wood and the firing all on your own, and
still come up with interesting results. But it
is different from an anagama or a trainkiln.
My kiln is lit at eight o´clock in the
morning, reach cone 10 at 4 pm and I go home
and take a shower at 5. I learned a new expression
last night: Crash cooling. That must be the case
with me. The temperature drops about 300 degrees
Celsius the first hour. I can unload the kiln
at noon the next morning.
I learned quite soon that I had to find my own
way in dealing with this fastfired kiln.
Just had to get to know her really well.The firing
is too short to give any substantial ash effects
or bring out the subtleties in a melted claysurface.
Neither did traditional highfired reduction glazes
turn out especially interesting under my firing
conditions.
I learned by trial and errors. Mostly by errors.
It turned out that using something in between
a glaze and a clay seemed to give the most interesting
surface results. I think this makes sense. A
short woodfiring needs some melting aid on the
surfaces to bring out rich and varied textures.
So I started to experiment with one particular
slipglaze I got from John Maltby in 1978.
We call it Maltby or 1-2-3. One part felspar.
Two parts whiting. Three parts kaolin.
Over the last 25 years I have not gone tired
with this glaze. It just seems to have endless
possibilities depending on thickness, claybody,
wood quality, kiln atmosphere, position in the
kiln and cooling curve.
I´ve occasionally tried the same glaze
recipe in many other kilns: anagamas, trainkilns
and gasfiring with no successful results. This
confirms my belief that you can start out with
any kiln. It´s just a question of becoming
real close friends with your own kiln and understand
the potensials this special friend offers you. |